What type of sediment is the most abundant by volume? These and additional wave patterns are listed in Table 5.2. wave reflection. Other physical processes, such as wind, tides, and storms can also shape the features of a beach. All Rights Reserved. Most ocean waves form as a result of ____. During winter months, monsoon winds over the Indian ocean ___. The graph shown is an example of a ________ tidal pattern. Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. c.wave diffraction. d.silt and clay (i.e., very small particle size). Constructive wave, A problem with the worldwide shark fisheries is __________. The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to, The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to, The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a, the distance over which the wind blows without interruption, Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces, As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ____. How does wave amplitude change with depth in water? -When two waves that have long wavelength interfere. Landforms and beach slope can also affect waves, currents, and the movement of water. Smaller waves tend to break in shallower water, closer to shore. This process is called shoaling, and it causes the height of waves to increase (Fig. d. Earth only has only one tidal bulge facing either the Sun or the Moon. Waves at the ocean surface are ____ waves. A. plunging breaker Multiple Choice. What happened to the Screen Junkies Show? As waves approach a coastline they lose energy though because friction with the seabed increases. C) spilling breakers. Calcareous algae The color coding reveals that wave heights are associated with, Wind fetch is _______. -The wavelength of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. . -a gently sloping rocky bottom This document may be freely reproduced and distributed for non-profit educational purposes. ESCI 101- Oceanography Portion- Section 2 - Chegg What does the term "in phase" refer to? Waves converge on headlands due to: wave refraction. c. Earth rotates into and out of tidal bulges. Destructive interference c. Wave diffraction d. Wave reflection e. Wave refraction. Waves are a type of erosion. All Rights Reserved, Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences, Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help, View All Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences Subjects. -Wave period is the inverse of wave amplitude. Coastal upwelling along the coast of Chile is a result of winds from the ___ turning towards the ____ due to Ekman transport. Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? A shallow-water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters. C) wave refraction. 5.19. has very high high tides and very low low tides. at a density boundary within the ocean (wrong answers: at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor , close to shore as it moves into shallow water , only as a . Waves converge on headlands due to wave refraction draw a wave that results from interference of solid and dashed waves straight line a tsunami might result from tectonic activity on the seafloor tides caused by ____ forces b/t the Earth and the ____ as well as the Earth and the ___. Waves are the result of disturbance of the water surface; waves themselves represent a restoring force to calm the surface. Coastal features are constantly changing; the same beach can look different over the span of a season or even a day. The strength and speed of a rip current dissipates as it heads out to sea, where the channel becomes wider or shallower. The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Period. All of the following are examples of features found along primary coasts except: Which characteristic would be found along a secondary coast? Waves converge on headlands due to: a.constructive interference. c.sinking of the crust due to large increases in sediment load. 5.4. Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. The first waves formed by the wind on a previously flat water surface, The area offshore within which waves are breaking is called the. In general, bays will have more sedimentation, because they have less wave energy, and headlands will have more erosion, due to the higher amount of wave energy reaching them. That energy is evenly spaced out in the deep water, but because of refraction, the energy of the waves is being focused on the headlands. The center of an open ocean tidal system is called a/an ________. Wave celerity of a deep water wave is equal to ____. b. destructive interference.c. Waves are required in order to have surf. Fig. Eventually, the wave will reach a height that causes it to break, or fall over onto itself. The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the. Oceanography Exam 3 Flashcards | Chegg.com Select only one answer. Course Hero is not sponsored or endorsed by any college or university. Which type of current flow moves in a circular path around a subtropical convergence, reflecting Ekman transport, gravity, and the Coriolis effect? A) gravity waves. A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least ________. -Rogue waves. In Figure 5.7, L1 is the wavelength of the incoming waves and L2 is the wavelength of the refracted waves. Diffraction occurs when waves pass through an opening or around a barrier and change direction (Fig. Hard engineering. Report a problem? c. diaphragm d. larynx. Density differences; differences in salinity and temperature. Waves are usually smaller, but choppier, in the area of a rip current. tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wavelength. The distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave. The fetch refers to A a method of shoreline erosion control Bay is a hair coat color of horses, characterized by a. Bays can be an inlet in a lake or a larger water body. Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak (B) Wave diffraction and reflection in Koieie Loko Ia fishpond. The steeper the bottom slope, the greater the increase in wave height. A number of stages are involved: All rocks have lines of weakness; the sea and its waves use hydraulic action, abrasion and solution to erode along any lines of weakness. Along irregular shorelines, waves also refract, but tend to converge on headlands, causing erosion of sediments . Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference produces: Large coastal storms such as hurricanes initially cause all of the following except: Among the physical factors that affect the magnitude of a gravitational force between two objects, which is most important? Fossilized remains of ancient marine life. ocean Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. If the bottom is very steep, the resulting waves will be plunging. What is the wave base? The large, flat muscle that moves up and down to alter the volume of the chest cavity is the a. trachea. How did the original headland become eroded to the present coastal landscape? The gravitational attraction just between the Moon and Sun. Why do people generally install a groin along their beach-front property? B) destructive interference. Which is technically the most correct with respect to tides? Grunion spawning patterns have evolved to take advantage of ________ associated with tides. Which of the following is true of surface water circulation near Antartica? What landforms are formed inland by erosion? If the process of speciation appears to occur relatively rapidly, why don't we see new species evolving all the time? Both the angle of incidence and the angle of reflection are measured from a normal line, which is a hypothetical line perpendicular to the shoreline. As a wave moves into increasingly shallow water, it continues to grow in height. Basically, waves made beaches, headlands,. e.Tides are not impacted by the eccentricity of Earths orbit about the Sun. If the map does not display but requires you to log in your organization account, log out of your organization account in the browser, and then refresh this page. 5.19). wave refraction. Longshore currents flow roughly parallel to the beach (Fig. Constructive interference b. a. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction, they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion, When waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, the waves slow down and the wave height increases, seacliffs are exposed to wave action, and they are also steep slopes, which can make them susceptible to landslides. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave steepness? Wave energy is focused on headlands by wave refraction. Foraminiferans and Coccolithophores -The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. Deep ocean currents are driven primarily by ___ and caused by ___. We invite you to share your thoughts, ask for help or read what other educators have to say by. What physical factors affect the magnitude of a gravitational force? -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point Why are groins installed in such large numbers along the coast? Are 0333 numbers included in free minutes? The ________ force pulls an orbiting body toward the center of that orbit. Coastal processes of erosion include hydraulic action, attrition, corrosion and solution. -When waves with identical amplitudes interfere. Ions from chemical weathering of the crust A vast majority of all large tsunami are generated in the ____ ocean. What is the best geologic evidence that the Mediterranean Sea has nearly, or completely dried up in the past? E) wave refraction. What is the most efficient electric heating system UK? What type of coast would we find at the headland? Volcanic Ash. -Wave refraction at the headland increases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. B) plunging breakers. Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. b.destructive interference. the waves are in extremely shallow water; in fact, it controls the wave speed if the depth of the bottom is less than about one twentieth of the wave length, so as the waves approach shore, they increase in height, they slow down, and they get closer together, and eventually the wave becomes unstable as the orbits interfered with at Test Prep. There is constructive interference between the lunar and solar tidal bulges during ________ tides. -The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest density? Why do ocean waves bend around headlands? Use Advanced Search to search by activities, standards, and more. The California current is an example of which of the following types of currents? A tidal current can produce a rapidly spinning body of water called a vortex or ________. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ____. Poop from animals that consumed shelled organisms. Tsunamis look like walls of white water advancing toward shore and can cause great damage when they run up the beach and onto land. d.coastal deposition. A) sea, surf . Alternating layers of hard and soft rock allow the sea to erode the soft rock faster, forming a bay but leaving hard rock sticking out, known as a headland. If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? . Surging breakers (Fig. Beaches, headlands, and spits were all made by WAVES which are caused by wind. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called. Because the focal spot results from the interference of these two waves, the time-reversed field can always be expressed (for a monochromatic wave) as the imaginary part of the Green's function (22). d. Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during winter. Your email address will not be published. The larger the wavelength and the smaller the barrier opening, the greater the waves will appear to bend around the barrier. -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. This means that the bathymetry (the underwater elevation) of the ocean or sea bed also impacts the strength of waves. Sediments may form from the remains of living organisms falling into the ocean floor. The coastline is the boundary between the ocean and the land. The horizontal distance between wave crest to crest is called the ____. -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough, -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough. A)constructive interference.B)destructive interference.C)wave diffraction.D)wave reflection.E)wave refraction. 5.8). A rip current is strongest at its neck, where the currents merge and flow back to sea through a deeper channel (Fig. Coastal waters support about _____________ percent of the total mass of life in the oceans. e. they enhance the natural flow of sand along a beach. -A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. 48.The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to _________. 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. All rights reserved. d. they cause erosion down-stream of the longshore drift. A closer look at the Hawaiian fishpond, Koieie Loko Ia, shows diffraction, as the water moves through small openings in the pond, and reflection, as the waves bounce off of the retaining wall (Fig. The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to ________. , where T is the wave period and g is the acceleration due to gravity (9.8 meters per second squared). 5.8. b.rise in sea level due to a large weight of glacier on a continental mass. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an. The low parts of the waves are called ____. the seafloor has an trough located just offshore andparallel to the beach offshore sand bars block some of the wave energy a depression or shallow channel runs offshore from the beach there are headlands along the coast the first part of each wave crest starts to break b. as evaporation increases, inflow increases. Why do waves converge on headlands? - Answers wave diffraction. In addition to observing and obeying signs and flags that warn about rip currents, and swimming at beaches with lifeguards, learn what a rip current looks like so you can avoid them (Fig. 51 Waves converge on headlands due to a constructive interference b destructive | Course Hero 51. Fig. Water from colliding waves can also explode, forming geysers of white water as the wave breaks. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave, What is the trough of a wave? Western boundary currents are much more easily observed by satellite. 17. -Water moves linearly in the opposite direction to wave movement. -The depth of the wave base is three-quarters of the wavelength of the waves. -A wave with an amplitude that is the difference between the amplitudes of the initial two waves. Because a rip current carries sediment out to sea, water in the rip current may appear a different color than the surrounding water (Fig. Exploring Our Fluid Earth, a product of the Curriculum Research & Development Group (CRDG), College of Education. As water gets shallower and waves travel more slowly, their wavelength decreases. What is an interference pattern? When will perfect constructive interference occur for waves that are in phase and moving at the same velocity? -Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. Waves converge on headlands due to _____. The content and activities in this topic will work towards building an understanding wave patterns in water and how water wave action affects and is affected by nearshore and coastal features. The uplift of downdropping of large areas of the sea floor creates ____ waves. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); We are largest Know-How Listing website, total [total_posts] questions already asked and get answers instantly! d.contain less sediment than summer beaches due to low energy waves during the winter. The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area. All of the following statements are true of ocean sediments except: Ocean sediments are thickest in pelagic waters overlying the oceanic ridges. - Wave speed is equal to wavelength divided by period. 5.3. Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks? Arrows represent direction of incoming wave fronts. 23. 5.4. Locations with wind that typically blows offshore or side-shore are usually preferable to on-shore winds. A wave with a 2-meter wave height and a wavelength of 1000 meters. How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion? The maximum tidal currents are reported ________. What is the wavelength? -The energy of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. Image courtesy of Cecilia and Randy Lascody, from National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Which of the following is the only current that completely circumscribes Earth? Water waves exhibit the same behaviors as other waves, including electromagnetic and sound waves, when they encounter a boundary, such as an object. A surf spot needs to be exposed to waves in order to have surf, so exposure to predominant swell direction is important. Suggest a correction? Is respiration endothermic or endothermic? -the lowest part of the wave A wave with an amplitude that is the SUM of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. -Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak -Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. Destructive interference c. Wave diffraction d. Wave reflection. . b.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during summer. a. as evaporation increases, inflow decreases. High tides and low tides occur at the same time every day for a geographic location. Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. Certain landforms further reduce waves erosive power. Fig. Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an ________. People can be found watching and riding waves worldwide, from Japan to Spain to Africa to the great lakes of North America. Where few streams bringing in lithogenous sediment. An eddy is a circular, whirlpool-like, movement of water (Fig. Wave steepness is defined as wave height divided by wavelength. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs Want to suggest a feature? If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? -Wave refraction at the headland decreases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. the supply of new sand to replenish beaches is cut off Definition. Concordant Coastlines This type of coastline is one where only one type of rock is facing the sea.
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